One of the features of Cambodia is the vast array of smells that are on offer. Some of the smells are quite pleasant others are unpleasantly pungent. Driving for only a few minutes in a tuk tuk you can experience a complex mix of burning incense, roasting meat, and open sewers smells.

Yesterday there was a distinct burning smell everywhere we went. My first instinct as an Australian was to think “bushfire” but of course there is no bush here in the middle of Phnom Penh. As we went about we saw people all the way down on every street standing around small metal drums burning things. Taking a closer look we saw people throwing in gold paper, wads of money (obviously fake) and even a brand new pair of shoes into the fire to be burnt.

I later discovered that this was a tradition of the Khmer people who have Chinese ancestry. They believe that burning what they they call joss or gold paper, ghost money and other items will help their ancestors in the afterlife.

The state religion here is Buddhism hence the ubiquitous Buddhist temples and monks. But in reality many people are animists believing in spirits who inhabit everything in the world. Clearly there are many here who worship their ancestors too. All of these practices are mixed up in some complex way that we are yet to get used to – just like the smells of the city. Yet another reminder that the people of Cambodia need to hear the good news of Jesus and the salvation that is in him.